Surfing in Alaska
What comes to mind when you read that? I bet there are a wide variety of reactions. Air temperatures well below zero (typically -5 to 30 Fahrenheit), water temps from 36 to 45 Fahrenheit and ideally, a nice offshore wind. Some of you will think it’s reckless endangerment of life, some will think it sounds miserable and wonder why people do things like this to their bodies. Hopefully there is a few of you that think about how you are going to come up here to see what it feels like firsthand. If you do make a splash in Alaskan waters in the winter, be prepared to do all your feeling in the first 5 minutes, because you probably won’t be able to feel your extremities for long.
For some of us who grew up in Alaska the idea of surfing here doesn’t seem crazy at all. When I was young I saw people surfing in pictures, looked out at the ocean in front of me, and that was all it took. I borrowed a ratty old wetsuit, layered up with the long johns, put on some waterproof commercial fishing gloves, and had mom drop me off at the beach. Since those early days my equipment has evolved, but not enough. I still get so cold that I shake uncontrollably and can hardly sit on the board. I feel myself losing cognitive function as I franticly wait for that last wave I have to catch before running to the car. I use my teeth to take off my gloves since my hands have lost muscle control and all feeling. In my old truck without an automatic transmission (or a heater that worked) I would have trouble driving home because my shaky legs couldn’t operate the clutch and gas peddle smoothly. It’s an interesting show watching a wet and hypothermic surfer struggle to get from the freezing ocean to a hot shower as quickly as possible.
One of the best things about surfing in Alaska is the great spirit out on the water. Some would say it’s because misery loves company. Whatever it is, we make quick friendships sitting out there in the water, freezing together as we wait for that perfect swell. It might be just because there are so few of us that we band together due to a preservation instinct. I think there is also an element that comes when you are in the water shaking with hypothermia, you definitely hope that anyone around is your friend, and will help you get out of your wetsuit if you are too cold to open the zipper yourself. We still call each other when the waves are firing, and try desperately to get at least one other person to share the experience with us. I must say though, I’ve heard rumors of crowds in one surfing spot in southeast Alaska.
For a few winters I’ve been throwing the camera in the car on my way to the beach, and until last winter that’s mostly where it stayed. It’s difficult to surf and photograph on the same trip to the beach. If I go surfing first, then my hands are numb, my body shaking, and the only thing on my mind is a hot shower. If I photograph first, then I get too cold standing on the beach and the last thing I want to do when I’m that cold is jump in the water. So needless to say, a lot of amazing surf sessions passed undocumented. This last winter though, I just couldn’t stand it anymore. I was finding myself out in the water on picture perfect days wishing I was on the beach with the camera. It can just be so overwhelmingly dramatic surfing here sometimes that I had to do something about it. So this winter I started leaving the surfboard on the car and just photographing. I think it paid off, though I missed some great waves, I’ve got photos to show how nice they were. And I’ve got some happy surfing buddies. Sure they missed my company in the water, but nobody minds seeing a photo of themselves getting barreled outside the ice pack with snow covered mountains in the background. (Thanks to Donna Rae Faulkner for the photo of me photographing surfers on the icy beach)
This last winter offered some great surfing photo opportunities with lot’s of ice on the beaches and some really nice waves. I spent most of the best surf days standing on the beach bundled up wearing a fur hat with cameras and bags hanging off me. These photo shoots are not particularly technically challenging, it is mostly about being there at the right time and knowing the subject. The photographic challenges mostly involve keeping the cameras warm enough to operate and having enough batteries to make it through a good session. I’ve started experimenting with a surf housing, but learning to use this housing in the surf with the temperatures and inconsistent surf near my home have stopped me from really learning to use it successfully. I hope to change that this year, learning to use the housing and figuring out the gear I need this summer when I can feel my fingers and the stakes aren’t so high. Mostly when I’m photographing surfing in Alaska I’m trying to focus on what makes this special. people are surfing gorgeous green waves the world-round, so what makes Alaska so special? I try and show those elements that make surfing in Alaska unique - ice, snow covered mountains, snowy beaches, uncrowded breaks . . .
29 responses so far ↓
1 Jaso // Jun 6, 2007 at 11:43 pm
Amazing images Scot. Those waves look quality too, they would tempt me out despite the temperature.
2 FrankyD // Jul 11, 2007 at 4:26 am
ScottD does the green room ever freeze? got some sick waves to day and cooked one wave so good my leash snapped, that is how cool I am. your web nice website bro :^)
3 Scott Dickerson // Nov 6, 2007 at 2:02 pm
FrankyD - The green room unfortunately is not here long enough to ever freeze over. . . Glad you like the simple new website.
4 Scott Dickerson // Nov 6, 2007 at 2:03 pm
Jaso - Thanks for the kind words. The waves tempt me out as well but not quiet as much as the photo opportunity does!
5 serge prop // Nov 7, 2007 at 11:58 am
These are the moest beautiful surfing foto´s I´ve ever seen! And we think we are tough in Holland surfing in winter in 6 degree water. But this is what people do who really understand the passion in surfing. What am wondering about though, is if people never get hurt surfing these harsh conditions…
6 brian // Nov 12, 2007 at 3:36 pm
scott,
i really want to come up to kodiak for a january session. where do i start researching this?
7 Scott Dickerson // Nov 12, 2007 at 4:04 pm
Serge Prop - glad you like the photos. The most beautiful surfing photos you’ve ever seen? wow, you must be a cold weather nutter for sure. My perspective is pretty warped on surfing in these cold conditions since it’s really my only surfing experience. Do we get hurt more? I don’t think so. I surfed in New Zealand a couple times and I got hurt there when a beginner longboarder ran me over and his fin hit my calf. Here we have to watch out for ice chunks in the water, but they move a lot slower than flailing longboarders! The cold is somewhat dangerous I suppose, but we are yet to have any serious cases of hypothermia.
8 Scott Dickerson // Nov 12, 2007 at 4:09 pm
Brian - It’s hard to find much info online about surfing Alaska. The reason being that there really just isn’t much information out there! There’s a small group of guys who surf in Kodiak all winter, but I don’t personally know them or have contact info for them. You can take the Alaska marine highway ferry from Homer to Kodiak, but you’ll need a car when you get there because the good beaches are about a 45min drive south of the town of Kodiak around Pasagshak Bay. You can camp on the beach there, but it might be pretty chilly and your wetsuit will be frozen in the morning! Depending on swell direction there might be other breaks closer to Kodiak itself, but Pasagshak area is the most consistent.
9 Ishmael // Nov 14, 2007 at 10:17 am
Scott,
Great shots!
For Brian:
Start with the Visitor Center at 907-486-4782 or 800-789-4782 and then call Kodiak City Hall at 486-8636 and ask for City Clerk Debra. Her husband is a crazed Kodiak surfer and you could find out about the scene through them.
Cheers!
10 Mark Elliott // Nov 18, 2007 at 6:39 pm
Scott,
Great photos. My adrenaline starts pumping a little seeing some of those beautiful curls.
I went out this morning for a surf on the Great Lakes and thought we were hardcore but you Kodiaks give me something to strive towards. How long do you think I’d last out there in full gear and a 4′3″?
11 Scott Dickerson // Nov 18, 2007 at 9:07 pm
Mark - Thanks. I’ve heard of you ‘Great Lakers.’ What does the water temp get down to there on the coldest days? You might be ready for Alaska.
4′3″ what is that!? a four foot surfboard? At first I thought you were talking about a 4mm/3mm wetsuit, that’s what I wear, but ride a 7′ board. I couldn’t tell you how you’d do on the board, but I’ll bet you guys surf some equally cold water in the lakes. Email me a couple photos if you can.
12 Mark Elliott // Nov 19, 2007 at 6:32 am
Hi Scott,
Sorry I don’t know where those quotations came from, you are correct I was referring to 4mm/3mm wetsuit. I’m currently on a 6 10 hybrid good for those messy lake waves.
The temp usually gets down to the low 40’s and even high 30’s in january. I’ll see what I can do about getting you some photos. My mates and I have the same problem you had with no one wanting to stay back and film when the waves are going off.
13 Ryan M. // Feb 9, 2008 at 9:53 pm
I Like the Pictures Scott. I know that its quite hard to take the time befor getting into the water to take pictures of friends. I’ve Surfed In Kodiak Since I was 16 years of age and I’ll tell you that Learning to surf in Alaska is quite a different experiance than other warmer places. To start with I’ve only surfed without a wetsuit less than 30 sessions and i’m here to tell you that i took no time at all adapting to more favorable conditions. I dont mind the lack of buoyancy, I mean wet suit, i dont miss that feeling of taking it off in sub freezing temps. I’m writing to you because I live in Anchorage for the time being and you know, there’s no surf here. I thought that I might be able to beat this current storm to kodiak this weekend and catch some double overhead monsters but After staying awake all night and rebooking 3 flights on Era I’ve got only 2 options, Quit my jobs and go for the gold all of next week or stay here in Anchorage and pout about the epic Week on our own North Shore… The Moral of this story… Get there before the storm! Especially if your flying Era.
14 Scott Dickerson // Feb 9, 2008 at 10:09 pm
@ Ryan M.
Good to hear from you Alaska surfing bro! Sorry about your ERA troubles, I think we have all had our share of air travel issues in AK.
I would suggest the third option of coming down to Homer, but I didn’t see anything brewing out there today. Could be here tomorrow though, who knows.
Thanks for commenting, hope we meet sometime in the water!
15 Ryan M. // Feb 10, 2008 at 12:27 pm
Too bad all MY gear is in Kodiak Already or i might have to try out this Homer Wave. Do you surf on the spit?
16 Scott Dickerson // Feb 10, 2008 at 12:37 pm
Sometimes we surf the spit, mostly we move around depending on the tide and swell direction. The tide is typically the biggest deciding factor. Often the surf will be a bit bigger on the spit but it’s a bit shorter of a tide window. Typically the best offshore breezes happen on the spit because it’s more exposed than the breaks closer to town.
Homer is terribly inconsistent. We’ll often go for weeks with no swell even in winter, and summer basically never has waves beyond waist high wind chop.
17 Gearing UP « Time for Alaska Blog // Apr 25, 2008 at 1:37 pm
[...] are many places to see here and lots to do. From camping to even surfing. I myself would prefer Hawaii to surf but to each his own. Depending on what type of things you [...]
18 Nathan // May 17, 2008 at 3:46 pm
Great sight with good info and some beautiful pics. I’m moving to Kodiak next fall and I’m stoked to see some of the beautiful waves, and line-ups where you know everyone by name. I learned to surf along the Washington/Oregon coast, and from what I hear Kodiak water temperature conditions are similar. I currently surf the Gulf coast (Louisianna) so I’m super excited about the prospect of blue water pristine coastline, and not having oil rigs in the background. I’m looking for someone that can help me out with a local’s inside knowledge, if someone could point me in the right direction and help me with some info I would appreciate it. Thanks!
19 Scott Dickerson // May 19, 2008 at 9:52 am
@ Nathan - Thanks for the kind words. Good on yah for moving to Kodiak! I think that is one of the most consistent known surf spots around South Central Alaska. Lots of beaches to explore and even some you can drive to. I think you’ll be lucky if there is anyone in the lineup to know by name. I recently heard one kodiaker saying he was having trouble finding anyone to surf with regularly.
In the summer the water temps won’t be bad at all. The winter things can get a bit cold, but sure beats sitting around in your house burning fossil fuels to stay warm all day.
I might be able to connect you with one or two Kodiak surfers, send me an email or call and I’ll see if I can help.
20 kyle // May 31, 2008 at 6:03 pm
hey i just moved to kodiak and i really want to learn how to surf what kind of gear do i need to surf in cold weather
21 Scott Dickerson // Jun 17, 2008 at 2:01 pm
Hi Kyle - I surfed for several years in a 3 millimeter suite and froze every time. Upgraded to a 4/3mm and wore a insulator shirt underneath, this was still very cold in the winter, but nice in the fall and late spring. It would also have been great in the summer, but Homer doesn’t get waves then. Now I’m wearing an oversized hand me down 6/5mm and it’s nice and warm. Whatever suit you have make sure you also have either a built in or separate hood, 7mm booties are nice, and warm gloves. Some guys wear lobster style gloves, some even mittens. I’ve been having cold fingers in some 5mm regular cut gloves. The main thing is that they are at least 5 mm thick and don’t leak.
I’ve seen nice suites by O’Neill, rip curl, body glove, and probably others I’m forgetting.
Hope that helps. Let me know how it goes for you down there in Kodiak. You’re in the spot to learn in Alaska, good luck!
22 Blake Jones // Jul 3, 2008 at 10:26 am
This is the coolest thing I’ve in a while. Where in Alaska is this because I am visiting a friend this summer, and I definetly want to check this out.
23 Iván Xavier // Jul 8, 2008 at 11:02 pm
Hi Scott, Really nice pictures u got bro! I just moved to Kodiak last week and i have plans to stay here for the next 6 months, Ive been doing some research on kodiak surf and like u sayed I havent found much. so Im glad ive found your site. I would like to go out to surf this summer but I dont know many surfers in the island.. I was wondering if I can get some contacts from other surfers that you know so I go out more frequenly. here’s my email ikam1320@hotmail.com in case someone’s interesting to surf kodiak this summer! Thanx
24 Slater_NW // Jul 17, 2008 at 6:06 pm
Scotty does know!!!
I’m wearing a 5/4/3 locally this summer w/booties and gloves too. I could survive for at least 20 mins to get some of those waves in those sweet glassy pics Scott. Keep ‘em coming, fulfill your destiny.
Then…. maybe heli into some of those surrounding peaks for some snowboarding too? Oye!
Good stuff for all ages, a true test of individualism……KS
25 Rich // Jul 21, 2008 at 10:20 pm
Hi Scott!
This site is great! Full of great pics and a lot of useful information. Keep up the good work! I just moved up from the lower 48s, Vegas to be exact. From the extreme heat to the extreme cold. Alaska is great I am glad I’ve gotten the opportunity to live here, in Anchorage, but I MISS SURFING!!! I see a lot of great pics here but mostly of long boards. I have a short board, a 6′3″, could it work up here in these conditions? What is ideal for Alaska conditions? Thanks and keep up the good work!!!
26 Scott Dickerson // Sep 3, 2008 at 12:55 pm
Sorry guys for the late response here. It was a busy summer. Busy in a great way.
First: Thanks for the kind words, I’m always glad to hear you enjoy the images.
@ Blake - Surfing in AK is cool, in a couple ways. . . A lot of my photos are from Kachemak Bay, however if you are looking for waves in the summer it’s certainly not the place to be.
@ Iván - Hopefully you made some more contacts there now. If you haven’t I would suggest heading to Psagshak beach and you should meet some locals there.
@ Slater - I’m working on the heliskiing / boarding. Hoping to photograph some of that this winter! cheers!
@ Rich - glad you find all this stuff helpful. While I don’t think we are the last frontier for surfing we certainly are one of them. Alaska has good surf waves that will certainly power your 6′ 3″ but you’ll get more stand-up time on a longer board of course. For most of us we don’t live by perfect breaks so we use the boards that afford us the most rides. When the conditions are perfect we bring out the shorter boards.
I’m hoping to head to Yakutat later in September for some photographing and maybe a little surfing too. I’ll report here if that trip comes together for me. Thanks to all of you for your comments, I hope to see you in the water below some snowy mountains soon!
27 Alaska surf season has begun // Sep 20, 2008 at 8:59 pm
[...] you want the real winter surfing see this post and photos of winter surfing in Alaska. Or you can go straight to an online gallery of Alaska surf [...]
28 michael // Oct 24, 2008 at 10:14 am
Great pic’s! Is that Yakutat? What’s the surf like up there in the summer and the water temp like?? Thanks michael
29 Scott Dickerson // Nov 13, 2008 at 5:31 pm
Thanks Michael. The surfing photos in this post are not from Yakutat, though I have surfed there a couple times. Alaska is a huge place, more coastline than all of the continental US combined, so it’s a hard question to answer. Where I live, in Homer, Alaska, the surf is non-existant in the summer. The summer water temps vary greatly but in the popular spots (Kodiak, Yakutat, Sitka, Cordova) you could expect high 40s at least.
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